Leather restoration products fall into three main categories: dyes, finishes (paints) and balms. However, the terms are often used interchangeably by novices and professionals alike, which makes it difficult to understand their differences.
First, think of leather as you do wood. It is a durable fiber with a natural grain. And like wood, it can be stained or painted. Most leathers, after tanning, are dyed. The dye penetrates and chemically bonds with the fiber, accentuating its natural variation, just like wood stain. After dyeing, most upholstery and garment leathers receive a protective finish that coats the surface. That finish may be clear or pigmented, absorb or repel liquids, and this determines how easily the leather fades, stains and scuffs — and how it is best restored later.
Dyes can restore or deepen color while preserving some of leather’s natural variation and grain, but they only work on absorbent leathers and usually require sealing with a clear finish to prevent color from staining clothes. Finishes (often called leather paints) form a flexible coating on the surface, allowing you to hide stains and repairs or even change the leather to a lighter color, and they work on most smooth leathers and vinyl. Balms are pigmented conditioners that deposit color along with oils and waxes to temporarily reduce the appearance of scratches and fading, but they do not permanently recolor the leather fibers.
Leather Dyes
Brands: Fiebing’s, Angelus
Consistency: Runny like water
Composition: Alcohol, oil or water-based
Application: Small pieces can be dip dyed. Spraying gets best results on large pieces. Wool dauber, cloth, sponge, or brush can also be used.
Great For: Absorbent (unfinished or delgazed) leather, vegetable-tanned leather
Avoid: Finished leathers that repel liquids, vinyl, suede, nubuck
Pros:
- Enhance the leather’s marbling and looks natural.
- Don’t peel or crack.
Cons:
- Cannot hide darker stains, scratches or repairs (and may in fact damage repairs made with putty).
- Not as much control when changing color.
- Cannot make leather lighter than it already is.
- The starting color (as well as stains and fading) may influence the final shade.
- May look uneven if absorbed inconsistently.
- May fade in sunlight.
- Require a clear sealer to prevent color transference. This finishes the leather similarly to a paint.
Leather Paints
Brands: Rub ‘n Restore, Furniture Clinic, Angelus, SEM, Leather Magic, Leather World Technologies
Consistency: Liquid ranging from water to buttermilk
Composition: Usually water-based acrylic, elastomeric, or urethane, though occasionally solvent-based sprays
Application: Sponge, brush or spray gun
Great For: Most smooth leathers (absorbent or not) including aniline, semi-aniline, pigmented / finished as well as vinyl
Avoid: Suede or nubuck
Pros:
- Cover darker stains, scratches and repairs.
- Can change leather color completely, even to lighter shades.
- Give uniform color but can also be printed for a marbled look.
- Resist sun fading and stains.
Cons:
- Reduced color variation.
- If improperly prepped or applied, can crack or peel.
- Can cool the feel of warm, buttery unfinished and aniline leathers.
Leather Balms
Brands: Furniture Clinic, Fortivo, Clydes, Coconix
Consistency: Thick, creamy paste
Composition: Oils and waxes
Application: Sponge
Great For: Absorbent leather, minor scuffs
Avoid: Finished leathers that repel liquids, vinyl, suede, nubuck
Pros:
- Low stakes and easy to apply.
- Condition and soften leather.
- Quickly enhance color and hide scuffs.
Cons:
- Color is temporary and needs periodic reapplication.
- Cannot hide repairs.
- Cannot change color.
The Verdict: Versatility
Balms are cosmetic maintenance, not restoration. Dyes can’t cover repairs, cover darker stains, and they require a sealer to prevent back staining. Most upholstery and garment leathers have a protective factory finish. When this finish becomes worn, when the leather needs repair, it’s a job for a paint, which is why it’s the most versatile leather restoration product.
However, because most folks don’t realize their fine leather goods have a protective finish, and because “leather paint” suggests a thick, plasticky coating, many novices search for “leather dye” when they actually need a finish. To attract those novices, many professionals and restoration companies also refer to these products as dyes, which perpetuates the confusion.
So Why Choose Rub ‘n Restore®?
Rub ‘n Restore® is a line of water-based acrylic finishes. Our finishes maintain the material’s breathability while providing protection against stains and sun fading. They don’t peel, flake nor stiffen the texture. Despite their thin viscosity, our finishes are pigment-rich and get incredible coverage. They can also be diluted to behave more like a wash or glaze and can be applied in a number of creative ways (just like other paints).
We compared Rub ‘n Restore® to two popular leather balms on an absorbent semi-aniline leather couch and were surprised how much better our finish looked, felt and performed on the dry, cracked edge of a cushion.
Balm #1 dried darker in the leather’s deeper lines and creases and accentuated them. It dried dull, even after two coats, and left an oily, waxy feel. It did not penetrate or adhere to the matching vinyl.
Balm #2 was thicker, much harder to spread, and significantly more expensive per ounce. Surprisingly, it conditioned the dry, cracked areas better than Balm #1. It dried with more shine but also did not work on the matching vinyl.
Rub ‘n Restore® leather paint gave smooth, even coverage on both the worn, absorbent leather and repellent vinyl, even in just one coat. It dried with a natural satin sheen. The texture felt natural like Balm #2. We restored the face of this couch and its matching loveseat with just an 8 oz. bottle! The cost is similar per ounce, less if you consider that only one coat and less effort were needed.
Looking to restore appearance of slightly worn cushions and arm rests on sofa. Thought it was leather but when I wiped new surface with damp microfibre cloth the color came off. Don’t think that would happen with leather. Need help selecting best option to make it all look the same.
Thank you
It’s more likely to happen with leather than vinyl or faux leather. Perhaps it painted or coated in something else? You can upload a photo for color recommendation at the bottom of our order swatches page here. If you want more expert human help with your couch, please order a consultation. Thanks!
Please recommend a product to restore the color of my 1980’s Porsche leather steering wheel cover. Thank you.
If your steering wheel is black, then our black finish should be perfect. Otherwise, it will need a matching color.
We have had some dining chair seats recovered and the leather is far lighter and more of a tan colour than the original ones. They cost a fortune and I hate them!😟Can you suggest anything I can do to improve the appearance of these monstrosities?
Recolor them to conform to the old. See here about matching color.
I have black motorcycle seats and would like to paint then brown. Will the brown paint hold up against the hard wear and tear of denim jeans and direct sunlight?
Our finishes serve as a UV protectant, but changing color can pose more maintenance. I’d only consider if if the seat is an absorbent aniline or semi-aniline leather. It’s likely a non-absorbent finished leather or vinyl. See here about changing color.
I want a motorcycle tank bib that is gray but black is about all I can buy. Thinking to buy a new black bib and simply paint it gray. Would leather paint handle occasional slight drips of gasoline (immediately wiped of course)?
Our finishes are water-based acrylics, which are not as thick and durable as urethanes. Acrylics wear / discolor without cracking, peeling or flaking like urethanes, however, and they touch-up easily. Gasoline is an aggressive solvent, so it may discolor the acrylic finish, but it’s worth a try. Just be sure the bib is real top-grain of full-grain leather or good quality PVC / vinyl, not polyurethane faux leather. Clean it thoroughly with a toothbrush, a water-based degreaser, followed by denatured alcohol or paint thinner, and the tape test. More info about changing color and what discoloration / wear can look like is here. Perhaps the greater issue is matching the grey. If ours don’t conform, we can customize but this is cost prohibitive for a small bib.
Our new leather recliner has a noxious chemical odor and a mildew smell. In all my years I have never had a new leather piece smell this badl. It’s only been 5 days and the odor is now running through the a/c vents and when you come into our home, the smell hits you like a brick wall. When I complained to the furniture store they were very disagreeable and questioned my ability to judge. Should it smell this noxious and as strong?
Hard to know what it was tanned and finished with. If the recliner has matching vinyl backs and side, perhaps that’s what you’re smelling. Either way, put it outside and let UV and fresh air do the work.
Hi. We have a chestnut brown 3 seat sofa and chair. It’s approx 2 years old and in great condition. We have just re decorated our living room and the colour of the sofa and chair does not work with our new flooring. Can we change the colour to a light grey and if so, what would you recommend? Many thanks, Julie.
Please see this article about changing color.
I have a black sofa. I am not sure if it is real leather or some type of leather looking fabric. There are no tears or cracks. Someone sat on it and must have had something on her hair as when she got up I saw the black color had disintagrated where her head was. It is like a large tannish spot. What can I use to repair this?
Thank you
If the grain is unaltered (see here), only discolored, then it sounds like good quality leather or vinyl, and a new finish will correct it. Submit the evaluation if you want our professional assessment and tailored instructions.
I have a new black leather bag with contrasting tan handles. Would like those handles to be black or grey. Is there any product that won’t rub off on clothing ever?
See here about color changing. Handles are high-wear, but a black finish and special order Satin Sealer are your best option.
I have a pair of leather skates. Some of the paint has scraped off (small patches) and some areas have ‘wrinkles’. They’re in the creases where the skate bends with use.
Will your guide for fixing cat scratches fix the wrinkling? I plan to use white. If I decide to change the color later, can I use another color finish over the white?
If the original leather is degrading along those stress points, a repair can’t be expected to perform better. And you’d want to use flexible filler. Color changing ice skates is discouraged. They’ll require constant touch-up depending on the quality and condition of the leather.
I need to stain or paint a vintage leather footstool from the ’50s. As it’s a footstool and will endure som wear,. Is paint a good option or do I need to go with a stain?
Here are the differences between dyes and finishes. The latter will serve it well, but read about color changes before undertaking one.
Hi my mum has tried to remove a stain using acetone free varnish and it’s removed the white finish from our leather couch. Can you please advise how we might be able to fix it?
You always want to clean with alcohol. This may also damage the finish but ensures a good result. A new color will correct the discoloration. Here are color matching options.
I have a black faux leather day bed that I’d like to paint(?) Would RubnRestore work on it? I’m thinking to use a tan color. What should I do?
If it’s vinyl (PVC), you can do it, but polyurethane (PU) resists most coatings. Learn more here about color changes.
I just bought a new demo car that has med brown car seats. The driver seat has a stain that is about the size of a nickel that is darker in color, and the stain will not come out with leather cleaner. My concern is that a stain would not work since the stain spot is darker than the base leather. Curious if you have a recommend as best solution?
Our products are finishes (paints) and will conceal darker stains where a dye will just darken everything and will still be prone to backstaining and fading. For an auto interior, you may need a Custom Color to get an exact match.
I bought a used Thomasville leather sofa. Several years ago we called to find out why it appeared to be cracking and asked what we could do about it. They told us there was nothing that could be done because of a coating on the couch. Apparently they had been recalled at one point. Now I’m moving and would love to use this couch in my new place. Do you know if there’s any leathers that your product won’t produce the types of results I’m seeing.
Bonded, faux, or polyurethane ‘leather’ (not vinyl) resist all coatings, and we discourage repairing those materials because of their inferiority. You don’t want to refinish nubuck, suede or fabric. Our products will work well on everything else. Thomasville is a decent brand with real leather, in our experience. If you submit the project evaluation we can be of better assistance.
I hired one of those mobile vinyl repair guys to paint the top of some mildew damaged pontoon benches.
It looks like he used a color at least two tones different from the original. The original was a creamy off-white, what he used looks very yellow tinged and he didn’t completely coat the panels leaving a contrast that amplifies the difference!
I am sending a sample panel for a detailed color match. Do I need to do anything to prepare the vinyl surface, specifically since I am painting over his original paint as well as the original material? I am going to cover all of it and not try and ‘blend’ original & new since there might be some fading overall from age from the sample I am sending you guys.
Thanks in advance for any help!
Douglas Schwan
Please email photos to info@rubnrestore.com or you can submit them directly through our contact page here, and we’ll be able to advise you better. From the sounds of it, this is how you’ll want to prep the surface.
I have water damage on a beautiful tan leather jacket. I tried to remove the stained edge and managed to remove color in a small spot. Now I’m thinking that I need to repair the entire panel where the damage is so that it will blend with the rest of the coat. I believe the leather to be aniline or at least partially so because it readily absorbs water. I want to restore the color in the spot where I removed it and make the rest of the panel fit with the color of the coat (a gorgeous golden/reddish tan). Can you give me some advice? Thank you.
Please email us a photo of the damage, and we can be of further assistance.